Cut for the hours you are actually sitting

Plaid, pleat and tailoring, cut in Alamosa

Cut for the hours you are actually sitting

Plaid A-line skirts and single-breasted jackets, cut from the waistband out so nothing needs adjusting by two in the afternoon.

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Plaid matched at the seamWaistbands that sit flatPockets deep enough to useCut and packed in ColoradoPlaid matched at the seamWaistbands that sit flatPockets deep enough to useCut and packed in Colorado

Two rails, one waistline

Four skirts and four jackets cut from the same plan, so the plaid and the buttons answer to each other.

LYDIA ANN MARIE GONZALES fit and fabric

A waistband should not need a second thought

We start at the waist, because that is where a skirt is judged. An elastic back sits under a clean front panel, so the line holds when you sit down and gives when you stand up; the zip is set into the side seam, which keeps the front flat under a tucked knit. Plaid panels are cut from one bolt in one direction and pinned so the lines run unbroken to the hem, released only where a pleat folds. Then the skirt is worn for a working day before it is photographed.

Read the fit notes

Three waists, one afternoon

A pleated check worn under a jacket, the same plaid in wine, and a white embroidered panel that changes the whole rail.

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LYDIA ANN MARIE GONZALES pieces to shop

The close-up: plaid, pleat, pocket

Three details carry this rail: a plaid matched at the seam, a pleat stitched down far enough to stay sharp, and a pocket deep enough to be used. We photograph all three in daylight and again under warm light, because a brown that reads rich on a screen can turn flat in an office.

See the jackets

Before you order

01

Press-finished

Steamed and folded along the seams so a jacket arrives with its collar sitting flat.

02

Plaid matched at the seam

Cut from one bolt in one direction, checked panel by panel before it is sewn.

03

30 days to return

Unworn with tags, posted back to our Alamosa, Colorado workroom.